Upon disassembling my first automag pistol per the manual instructions, I was horrified to discover blobs of weld where the bolt rotation pin connects to the ring around the bolt. Fearing some "bubba" was responsible, I turned to the internet and was only able to find one old post on this forum obliquely referencing a "type b or c" version with welded studs instead of a pin, and cuts in the bolt to allow it to be taken out the front instead of the back. My bolt does have these cuts so I am now assuming the welding is factory. But despite that same post claiming photos of such a design existing, I have not been able find any other corroborating images. Can anyone confirm if these welds and bolt design seem correct to the gun?
I cant seem to get my phone to upload more than one photo at a time so, here is the rotation ring...
And here is the bolt with the cut out channels in its rear end...
@judgeroybean After TDE/OMC stared offering the Solid Bolt version of the Automag, they offered the conversion of the Solid Bolt gun, for earlier produced (A prefix) AMs. I've had a couple over the years, and Yes, they have looked that crude (welding). Side note, I love the solid bolt, it's much stronger that the standard hollow bolt. I buy just the solid bolts machine/convert them into hollow bolts to run in Hollow Bolt guns. They last for ever.
@kmp Thanks! Good to know. Is it a pretty common conversion to find in the wild?
I also have a followup question regarding the accelerator. Is it supposed to sit flush against the barrel lug? Mine is a bit proud even when fully actuated which seems to have peened the frame a bit.
@judgeroybean Unfortunately, that is common. They are very inconsistent. The mark on the frame is officially "married" to the accelerator. It shouldn't get any worse.
I modify the accelerator, buy adding more of a radius to the contact surface of the accelerator, which inturn centers the impact more to the flat of the frame.
Another area of the accelerator I modify is the contact surface of the accelerator that contacts the large bolt lug. Back story. I like shooting weak loads (right at subsonic), so I don't damage the pistol. I mostly load ammo to .45ACP specs. So, I add material to the accelerator contact surface that his the bolt, time it perfectly so when the lower part of the accelerator hits the frame, simultaneously, the top part of the accelerator contacts the bolt lug. Timing is the key factor to this. You need to make sure the bolt is perfectly unlocked, before the accelerator hits the bolt lug. The right combination of modification will accelerate the bolt at the lightest loads and function flawlessly. I have thousands of rounds through my pistols, without damaging parts, especially the lugs.
Eric
